Here’s a concise and engaging summary:

Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of a lifelong obsession—surfing. More than just a sport, surfing is portrayed as an addiction, an art, and a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan began surfing as a child and later traveled the world chasing waves—from the South Pacific to Australia, Asia, and Africa. A thoughtful writer and adventurous spirit, he ultimately became a war reporter, but surfing remained at the core of his life.

The book takes readers deep into unfamiliar worlds, from the raw camaraderie of surfers in challenging waves to the social upheavals of the 1960s. Finnegan shares vivid stories of youthful recklessness, including surfing massive waves under the influence of LSD, and details encounters with different cultures, from a Samoan fishing village to Indonesia’s black market.

More than an adventure story, Barbarian Days is a literary exploration of personal growth, the mastery of a demanding craft, and the enduring pull of the ocean.